Destroyed by fire – the fire proof theatre of Drury Lane

Author: Matt Gedge
Post Date: Wednesday 24th February 2013

“A man may surely be able to take a glass of wine by his own fireside” So reportedly said the owner of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Richard Brinsley Sheridan, as he watched his ‘fire proof theatre’ burn to the ground on this day, 24th February, in 1809.

Sheridan – an Irish MP – had been told of the fire while attending a debate in Parliament. By the time he had reached the theatre the fire was out of control, so he did perhaps the only thing he could in that situation. Facing financial ruin he walked into an adjacent pub, ordered a drink, and watched his fortune disappear in one truly memorable last show.

More Famous London Attractions and their Cheaper Alternatives

Author: Matt Gedge

Post Date: 16th February 2013

Now that I’ve managed to find my way to the front of the queue in all the major attractions much easier thanks to the success of my first ‘Famous London Attractions and their Cheaper Alternative‘ post, I’ve decided to do another!

Westminster Abbey vs St Brides Church

Extraordinary history, staggering importance, wonderful architecture and modern romance, Westminster Abbey has it all. This is the site on which William the Conqueror was crowned on Christmas Day 1066, with the resulting jubilations inside sending his soldiers into panic on the outside, presuming unrest and setting fire to the surrounding buildings. It is where George IV’s coronation was memorable in that he banned his own wife, and where of course Kate and William were married in 2011.

You’ll have to face mega queues in the summer thought, and it’ll be exceptionally crowded inside, and of course pretty expensive for a church at £18 for adults.

However, if its romance and remembrance you’re after, you’ll struggle to beat St Bride’s Church. The spire is the inspiration for the wedding cake, inside there is an incredibly touching ongoing vigil inside to journalists lost or missing, while downstairs you will discover an incredible array of items – including an iron coffin used to deter body snatchers, part of a roman pavement and a medieval charnal house.

St Bride was said to be able to turn water into wine but if she’s not feeling so charitable today don’t worry as you’re on Fleet street where you’ll find some of the most atmospheric pubs in London!

London Aquarium v Wetland Centre

Sharks, piranhas, stingrays and jellyfish. (Un)fortunately you won’t find them splashing around in the Thames (although a whale did get lost in our famous river not so long ago).

But you will see them all if you head to the Aquarium on the Southbank. However, if the fear induced by your proximity to so many natural predators is mollified by the safety of all that thick glass, then at least one thing will get your heart thumping fast: the entrance fee. At £26.50 for an adult ticket you may decide to look around for alternatives rather than being stuck in a fishy amusement arcade locked inside an old government building.

So how about the Wetland Centre? This beautiful and serene oasis within the frantic pollutant that is London can provide a welcome break from all the hustle and bustle.

The focus here is on conservation, preservation and living in harmony with nature but there is a lot of fun for the kids too – most notably on the bat walks! Like the crew from a Star Trek episode beamed down to an alien world you’ll be given a bat detector which picks up the sounds unheard by the human ear and then walk around in the dusk waiting to see them fly by.

And you’ll get the entire family in here for only a few quid more than the adult ticket at the Aquarium.

London Eye v Secret London Walking Tour

The London Eye affords first time visitors to London a great opportunity to get a bird’s eye view of this wonderful city. As you move around at a sedentary pace you’ll be transfixed by the majesty of Parliament, the dominance of the River Thames and possibly by the screaming of a baby next to you.

But don’t worry, you’ll be released from your capsule a mere half an hour later, much like you were relieved of £119.80 for your family ticket a short while before…

Those of you who prefer to explore the delights of this city rather than merely observe through a window may wish to join the Secret London tour.

You’ll be entertained, informed, and regaled with stories about a side to London which is lost on the average tourist. This is the London you can touch, and feel, where you can peer through the cracks, betraying a rather unusual and curious living history. And you may even be able to touch the Duke of Wellington’s nose! All for £12 per person.

West End Theatre v Shakespeare’s Globe

I must admit I’m not a big fan of musicals, so this one is pretty easy. Rather than spend an uncomfortably large sum on tickets to something I would only consider if it were free, I would strongly suggest going to the Globe Theatre instead.

Standing under the summer skies watching actors fulfil a dream to perform Shakespeare in such a historical and beautiful setting is rather overwhelming. As is the contemplation of the love and thought put into creating not only the production but also the building itself, which replicated the building materials of 400 years earlier.

The atmosphere is electric, the sense of being in something together is quite moving, and when you pour out of the theatre a few hours later you’ll be looking out on the Thames rather than a bustling central London street. And at £5 per person, it has to be one of the most reasonable tickets in the whole of the city.

Chelsea FC v AFC Wimbledon

‘Blue is the colour, football is the game. We’re all together and Chelsea is our name. We’ll lead you through the sun and rain, cos Chelsea, Chelsea is our name!’. So sing the fans of Chelsea FC, one of the most successful football clubs of recent years, a glowing example of how London’s soul is being torn out by obscenely rich Russian oligarchs.

As you join in with the other 40,000 or so casual fans from around the world, watching mollycoddled superstars prance around under the doting eye of their sugar daddy Roman Abramovitch, you can reflect that once upon a time, this was a community club. Tickets to see ‘Chelski’ are astronomical, so why not watch REAL english football?

There are currently 12 other football league clubs in London, so you’re really spoilt for choice.

Brentford’s Griffin Park has the wonderful distinction of being the only football league club to have a pub at every corner of the stadium, but if you want romance and history, I’d suggest watching AFC Wimbledon. This is the club who came from non-league football all the way to the top and won the FA Cup against mighty Liverpool in 1988. They’re also the only club in modern times to be stolen from their fanbase and taken to Milton Keynes. (We don’t do franchising of sports teams in England).

So rather than relocate, the vast majority of fans took it upon themselves to start the club again and begin the journey once more. This is real fan investment, and you can really feel it when you watch a game.

Famous London Attractions and their Cheaper Alternative

Author: Matt Gedge

Post Date: Sunday 13th January 2013

Ever thought you would like to avoid the queues and dig a little deeper into what is on offer in London? Is it your second visit here and you have already seen all the main attractions on the check list? Or do you simply want to find places which are reasonably cheap and slightly off the main tourist radar? Then this is the list for you!

London Dungeon v Highgate Cemetery

The London Dungeon has been one of the most popular tourist attractions in London for a while now, and you can see why. It draws on the mystique of London and its seedier side more effectively than anywhere else and has an instant allure for kids. Nevertheless I didn’t find it frightening in the slightest, and only mildly entertaining, bah humbug. But if your children are pulling on your sleeves insisting you go, then maybe the £94 for a family of four is worth it?

But if that proves out of reach of your holiday budget, and you want to go somewhere genuinely creepy, historical, and full of real dead people rather than underachieving actors then why not head to Highgate cemetery? Although one half of the cemetery – the east – is free, to get the full experience either book yourself onto one of the daily guided tours during the week, or go along at the weekend and join one of the half hourly walks. You can’t help but be amazed at the extraordinary Victorian morbid grandeur while walking through the Terrace Catacombs and Egyptian Avenue. Its like being transported into a Hammer Horror movie without the fake blood and dodgy acting. And a family of four get in for £36.

Houses of Parliament (aka Palace of Westminster) v Guildhall

Ok, definitely go in both if you have a chance. I find the history, architectural beauty and sheer importance of Charles Barry and Augustus Pugin’s Victorian gothic masterpiece a real delight. Walking through the Central Lobby, iconic Lords and Commons Chambers or gaping at the over 900 year old Westminster Hall where the likes of William Wallace, King Charles I and Thomas More have been held on trial is a truly mindboggling experience. Arguably the best thing you could do on a trip to London. But it is £25, so…

Why not head to the Guildhall in the City of London? The medieval hall is over 400 years older than the Palace of Westminster, is arguably more impressive than Westminster Hall, survived the Great Fire and the Blitz, has held major events like Chopin’s final concert, the trial of Lady Jane Grey (our nine day Queen), huge banquets, and is where the City of London’s government assemble in the Court of Common Council. This government although not as democratic as it’s Westminster counterpart has a longer history, huge power, great costumes amongst its hierarchy and even two mascots – the giants Gog and Magog who look down on proceedings! And if that isn’t enough, there’s a library housing treasures like Shakespeare’s first folio and a wonderful art gallery, underneath which you’ll find the remains of London’s roman amphitheatre. Phew! And incredibly, it’s all FREE!!!

Shard vs The Monument

For me this is an easy one. The Shard is a flat track bully. Like an enormous middle finger raised to everything and everyone else around, it is a monument to greed, a gigantic phallus which feels as welcoming as the eye of Sauron which it coincidentally closely resembles. Sure, you get great views from the top, sure, the toilets are like something out of the Starship Enterprise, but let’s not forget that this architectural blot only just scrapes in as an insignificant 87th tallest building in the world, and will probably be forgotten about 100 years from now. And all for an eye watering £25.

While the Shard is a grotesquely blatant physical reminder of the staggering financial inequality in London, the Monument is a similarly strident memorial to a defining moment in this city’s history. It stands defiantly by Pudding Lane, where the Great Fire of 1666 began, and soars into the sky like a solitary candle in an everlasting vigil to that cataclysmic event. Plenty of plus points – it was designed by the greatest of all London architects, Sir Christopher Wren, alongside the wonderful Dr Robert Hooke, has seen three London bridges in its lifetime, and rewards the energetic climber of the 311 steps with great views and even a certificate once you return to ground level. And its only £4!!!

Ripleys Believe It Or Not v Liar Liar Walking Tour

Ripley’s in London is either a lot of fun or instantly forgettable depending on your view on these things. It is the biggest Ripley’s in the world, houses over 700 items of varying degrees of bizarreness, from a knitted life-size Ferrari to an animated T-Rex. But if it’s London you’ve come to see then you’re not really seeing much by wandering around an over-large collection of bric a brac. So rather than spend £80 on a family ticket, why not check out…

…The Liar Liar tour. I may be a bit biased here as I designed it, but if you want to discover London in an entertaining, engaging and challenging way then you’ll love this unusual format for a walking tour. We wander the old and new streets of the Square Mile, plotting a course through Dickensian alleyways, old courtyards, strangely named streets, taking in the brilliantly named Cheesegrater and Gherkin, and past incredible old churches and institutions but keeping an eye out for the smaller detail. Along the way I’ll give you three facts about each place, one of which is a lie, and you’ll compete to guess which is the lie! Sooo much fun. And only £12 per person.

Buckingham Palace v Banqueting House

The Queen’s London residence has been pulverised in years gone by as one of this city’s most unattractive structures, the ugliest royal residence in Europe, and once even topped the list as the most environmentally damaging building in the city. Its walls and rooms are adorned with an overwhelming jamboree of paintings and furnishings you wouldn’t like in your own room (unless you knew their price), and even the woman who lives there prefers to spend her time elsewhere. But still, it is Buckingham Palace, so if you’re in London and want to do what tourists do then of course spend your £20 and envy the booty.

Alternatively you could head somewhere far more architecturally pleasing, and arguably more important in the grand scheme of things for the royal family. Well, certainly more memorable. Banqueting House was designed by the great Inigo Jones nearly 400 years ago, and being the first neo-classical building of its type in London with its perfectly proportioned dimensions it transformed the city’s architecture. It was once part of the huge Whitehall Palace, the monarchy’s residence for about as long as Buck House has been now. The splendid Rubens which adorns the ceiling is really something to behold, as is the cold feeling once you know that King Charles I was executed on a scaffolding just outside. Pretty good for £6.60!

Note – you can see many of these locations on our acclaimed walking tours!

The Curious Tale of Martin Van Butchell

Author: Matt Gedge

I was asked to do a presentation on Great Windmill Street just off Piccadilly Circus, and was inevitably drawn to the former home, museum and dissection theatre of the 18th century anatomist William Hunter. Slightly inappropriately, the building is now part of the Lyric Theatre playing Michael Jackson’s ode to the undead, Thriller! Research into Hunter in the googlesphere brought me tangentially and euphorically to the curious case of the eccentric Georgian dentist of Mayfair, Martin Van Butchell.

Butchell was born in 1735 in Eagle Street, near Red Lion Square, the son of a tapestry maker to George II. He became skilled in anatomy and medicine, and after serving as a pupil to the famous surgeon (and brother of William) John Hunter, he became a successful dentist and maker of trusses in Mount Street just off Berkeley Square in Mayfair.He had a great skill of treating cases of ruptures and anal fistulas, and was well sought after owing to his reputation and captivating newspaper advertisements. But despite his ability, he soon became more famous for his eccentricity, extreme, outlandish and socially unacceptable behaviour.

Hyde Park was a regular haunt of Butchell’s , where he enjoyed riding around on a white pony which he often painted with purple or black spots. He was known for his extraordinary costume and long beard, and, fearful of attack, he carried a large white bone which was reputedly used as a weapon of war in Tahiti.

Butchell’s first wife Mary died on January 14th 1775, and Butchell asked Hunter – his former tutor – and the anatomist William Cruikshank to preserve the body. Mary was filled with powdered nitre, glass eyes were inserted, she was dressed in a fine gown, and the corpse was then put in plaster of paris with a retractable glass lid so that it could be on display to his friends and visitors in the house which was also housed his practice. Despite the effort of ensuring the lips and cheeks maintained their colour using oil of turpentine and camphorated spirit of wine, the corpse was described as a ‘repulsive looking object’.

A rumour suggested that a clause in the marriage certificate provided Butchell with income so long as Mary was ‘above ground’ and that Butchell was using the display to attract more publicity.

It would seem his second wife objected, so the body was moved out of the surgery to the Royal College of Surgeons in Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

Butchell died circa 1812 but his wife’s preserved corpse remained in the college for 166 years until it was destroyed during the devastating air raids of 10th-11th May 1941.

Pictures sourced from The History of Medicine With thanks to Sue De Nim

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