London is a city of rhythm, ritual, and history, but nothing quite captures the imagination like the Changing of the Guard. It is a spectacle of colour, mystery, and magnificence that has drawn visitors to the gates of Buckingham Palace for generations. However, for families travelling with little ones, the dream of seeing the iconic bearskin hats can quickly turn into a stressful shuffle through a sea of selfie sticks.
We know the feeling. You want your children to witness the heritage of the British monarchy, to hear the crash of the drums and the precision of the boots, but you don’t want to spend two hours pinned against a cold iron railing.
The good news? There is a better way. If you are looking for unique things to do in London that won’t leave you exhausted before lunch, we have curated the ultimate guide to navigating this ceremony like a local.
Most people assume the Changing of the Guard is a singular event that happens right at the palace gates at 11:00 am. In reality, it is a choreographed movement of several different groups across multiple locations. To truly unearth the magic, you need to be ahead of the curve.
The official ceremony at Buckingham Palace starts at approximately 10:45 am, but the “Old Guard” actually begins to gather at St. James’s Palace and Wellington Barracks much earlier. If you want to avoid the heaviest congestion, we recommend arriving in the area by 10:00 am.
Arriving early doesn’t mean standing still. It gives you the chance to wander down The Mall, feeling the anticipation in the air. By being early, you can secure a spot where your children can actually see over the shoulders of the crowd… or better yet, a spot where there are no shoulders in the way at all.
The biggest mistake most families make is heading straight for the Victoria Memorial (the large gold statue directly in front of Buckingham Palace). While the view is iconic, it is also the most crowded, claustrophobic, and frantic spot in the city during the ceremony.
Instead of fighting for a square inch of pavement, we suggest exploring alternative viewing spots. One of our favourite secrets is to watch the guards as they march between St. James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace. The crowds here are significantly thinner, and the guards pass by so closely that you can hear the creak of the barked orders and the focused breathing of the soldiers.
If you position yourself along The Mall, you may get a front-row seat to the movement without the crushing weight of thousands of people. It turns a chaotic morning into an intimate encounter with history.
We understand that “waiting” isn’t exactly in a child’s vocabulary. Even with the best planning, there are moments of downtime as the various regiments transition. If the kids are starting to get restless, we have a lifesaver for you.
Located at the corner of Spur Road and Birdcage Walk: right at the southwest corner of St. James’s Park: is a wonderful playground. It’s the perfect tactical retreat. While one parent keeps an eye on the guard movement, the other can let the children burn off some steam.
This is one of those unique things to do in London that makes a world of difference for a family holiday. You can listen for the faint sound of the brass band from the swings, and when you hear the music getting louder, you can walk back towards the action to see the next phase of the parade. It keeps the energy high and the boredom low.
Most people think that once the “swap” happens at the palace, the show is over. They immediately disperse, creating a massive bottleneck of people heading toward the tube stations. This is where we recommend you do the opposite.
Stay put, or better yet, move toward Birdcage Walk. Around 11.45 pm, the Old Guard parade back to their barracks while the New Guard march towards St James Palace. They march with their full band or corps of drums, and once again its an incredible sight to behold.
By watching the “march back,” you get all the pomp and pageantry of the main ceremony but with a fraction of the audience. Stand along the Mall, and you’ll have a great view of the soldiers as they pass by. It’s a sensory feast of gleaming brass, rhythmic footfalls, and vibrant red tunics.
If the thought of Central London still feels a bit overwhelming, we have one more trick up our sleeve. The King’s Guard don’t just protect Buckingham Palace; they are also on duty at Windsor Castle.
Seeing the ceremony at Windsor may not be as famous or iconic as the one at Buckingham Palace, it is often a much more relaxed experience for families. The crowds are smaller, and the backdrop of the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world is simply breathtaking. Plus, Windsor offers fantastic family-focused tours that can occupy the rest of your afternoon.
However, understandably for most people our heart is set on seeing the main event in London. And if you do it right, you can see all the action rather than a small subsection of the ceremony on the courtyard. And there is one foolproof way to ensure you see everything perfectly without any of the stress of planning it yourself.
While these steps will certainly help you navigate the day, there is nothing quite like having an expert companion by your side to reveal the hidden layers of London’s history and more importantly, ensure you’re in the right place at the right time to see this breathtaking ceremony. For us, Changing the Guard is the one bucket list option in London which just has to be done with a guide. Its a once in a lifetime experience, so you should do it properly.
When you join us for a walking tour, you aren’t just following a map; you are stepping into a story. Our guides, like David or Rachel, have spent years perfecting the art of the “guard weave.” We know exactly where to stand at exactly what time to ensure you see every crucial moment of the ceremony without ever being stuck in a crowd.
We call it ‘The most exciting way to see the Changing the Guard ceremony’ because we don’t just stand and watch. We move with the guards. We explain the history of the different regiments, the meaning behind the different plumes in their hats, and the reason why the music choices are often so unexpected.
It is a Changing the guard tour London experience designed specifically for families and tourists who want to maximize their time and minimize their stress. We take care of the logistics, the timing, and the navigation, leaving you free to focus on the look of wonder on your children’s faces.
London is a city best explored on foot, but the quality of that exploration depends entirely on the company you keep. Large, impersonal tours often end up being part of the very “crowd problem” you are trying to avoid. This is why we cap our numbers at 20, and even have a smaller group option.
At Fun London Tours, we have gone that extra mile to ensure you have a great time. Beware other tour companies who advertise a Changing the Guard tour every day as the ceremony is only four times a week (as of 2026). We are professional, dedicated, knowledgeable and FUN.
If you’re ready to see this ceremony with an expert, we invite you to check our tour schedule.
London is waiting, and the guards are ready. Let’s make sure you have the best seat in the house. If you have any questions about accessibility or which tour is right for your age group, our FAQ is a great place to start, or you can get to know our wonderful team of guides like Jess and Nick before you arrive.
We can’t wait to share the magic of the city with you. See you on the Mall!
We’ve all stood outside those iconic black and gold gates, peering through the ironwork to catch a glimpse of a scarlet tunic or a familiar face in an upper window. Buckingham Palace is the ultimate symbol of British stability, a fortress of tradition, and arguably the most famous private residence on the planet. To the casual observer, it looks impenetrable… a bastion of grit, glamour, and guarded gates.
But history tells a slightly more porous story.
While the King’s Guard stands tall with their bearskin hats and unwavering discipline, the history of the Palace is peppered with moments where the “keep out” sign was politely, or not so politely, ignored. From Victorian teenagers with a penchant for royal snacks to the most famous bedroom intruder in history, we’ve gathered five of the most scandalous times the Palace security was caught napping.
Long before the age of paparazzi and 24-hour news cycles, there was Edward Jones. Better known to the Victorian press as “the Boy Jones,” this 14-year-old had an obsession with the Palace that bordered on the supernatural.
Between 1838 and 1841, Jones didn’t just break in once; he treated Buckingham Palace like his personal clubhouse. His first successful entry in 1838 saw him discovered by a porter, looking rather grubby and disguised as a chimney sweep. What had he been doing? Oh, just sitting on Queen Victoria’s throne and reportedly helping himself to some of her underwear which he’d stuffed down his trousers.
You might think that a stint in prison would deter a young lad, but Jones was persistent. In 1840, just nine days after Queen Victoria had given birth to her first child, Jones was found hiding under a sofa in the Queen’s dressing room. He had been living in the Palace for days, hiding under beds and inside chimneys, listening to royal conversations and: most importantly: eating his fill from the royal kitchens.
He was eventually sent to sea to keep him away from the Palace, but his legacy remains as the first person to prove that if you’re small enough and quiet enough, even a Queen isn’t safe from an uninvited guest.
On 23rd June 1981, three unsuspecting German tourists managed to scale the fence surrounding Buckingham Palace, pitch a tent, and settle in for the night – all because they thought the royal grounds were simply an extension of Hyde Park. In what has to rank among the most accidental palace invasions in history, the trio spent the night blissfully unaware they were camping in the back garden of the Queen’s official residence!
In the morning the three men had a breakfast of a “some cake, bread with jam, and a can of beer” before asking a “couple of old men” who were gardening whether they worked here. Shortly afterwards a number of police had the tourists surrounded and taken into custardy.
When people think of Palace intruders, Michael Fagan is the name that immediately leaps to mind. However, most people don’t realise that his famous bedroom encounter was actually his second visit of the summer.
In early June 1982, Fagan scaled a drainpipe and entered through an unlocked window on the north face of the Palace. Once inside, he didn’t head for the crown jewels. Instead, he spent half an hour wandering the corridors, unearthing the mundane reality of royal life. He found a pantry and, feeling a bit peckish, helped himself to some cheese and crackers. He even found a bottle of white wine and polished it off while sitting on a throne.
Fagan triggered three separate alarms during this jaunt. Each time, the police on duty simply switched them off, assuming they were faulty. He eventually left through a window, completely undetected. It’s a story of colour, mystery, and magnificence… or perhaps just a very lucky man and a very tired security team.
On July 9, 1982, Fagan decided to go back for seconds. This time, the stakes were much higher. He scaled the 14-foot perimeter wall, evaded guard and police detection, and climbed the same drainpipe.
Again, he tripped the alarms. Again, the security team assumed they were malfunctioning.
Fagan found his way into the Queen’s private chambers around 7:15 AM. He entered the bedroom of Queen Elizabeth II, who was stirred from her sleep as he disturbed the curtains. While the legend often suggests they had a long, philosophical chat about life and the state of the country, the reality was much more frantic. The Queen hit her bedside alarm, called the switchboard twice before the duty footman and the police arrived.
This breach remains the most significant security failure in modern British history. It led to a massive shake-up of the Metropolitan Police’s Royalty Protection Branch and ensured that the “unlocked window” era of the Palace was firmly over.
In one of the most bizarre breaches in the history of Buckingham Palace, a fathers’ rights activist dressed as Batman scaled the palace walls with an extendable ladder and settled onto a ledge beside the famous royal balcony – the very spot where the Royal Family appears during major celebrations.
Perched above the crowds for five hours, “Batman” waved banners and greeted stunned tourists before police finally brought in a crane to remove him, turning the protest into a live televised spectacle and leaving palace security looking decidedly less heroic than the Caped Crusader himself.
Why do these stories capture our imagination so vividly? Perhaps it’s because Buckingham Palace represents the pinnacle of British “properness.” Seeing that polished exterior punctured by a bit of human chaos reminds us that even the grandest institutions are run by people: and people, as we know, can sometimes miss the obvious.
When you join us for our Changing the Guard Tour, you’ll see the precision of the soldiers firsthand. You’ll witness the sharp commands, the rhythmic stomp of boots, and the gleaming brass that makes the ceremony so world-renowned. It’s hard to imagine anyone “just walking in” while watching the Foot Guards in action.
London’s royal history is full of these hidden layers: the stories that don’t always make it into the official guidebooks. Whether it’s the antics of Victorian intruders or the tactical secrets of the King’s Guard, there is always more to discover…
If you’re ready to unearth the tales behind the gates, we’d love to have you along. Our Small Group Changing the Guard Tour offers an intimate look at the ceremony, the history, and the occasional scandals that have shaped the British Monarchy.
We don’t just show you the sights; we share the secrets. From the best vantage points to the stories of the people who have lived (and occasionally trespassed) within those walls, our guides: like Paul or Alex: are experts at bringing the past to life with wit and warmth.
So, next time you’re standing at the Palace railings, take a look at the windows. You might just spot a shadow and wonder… is it a Royal, or is it someone looking for the cheese and crackers?
Ready to see the Palace for yourself? Check our tour schedule and book your spot today. And throughout the summer we can even get you inside the Palace (legally!) on our small group Buckingham Palace entry ticket & Changing the Guard tour.
London is a city of layers, of history, of secrets, and of spectacular theatre. At the heart of it all lies the Changing of the Guard, a ceremony so iconic it’s practically synonymous with the British capital. It is a display of colour, mystery, and magnificence that draws thousands of visitors every single week.
Yet, here is a secret we’ll share with you: most people see only a fraction of the real show.
If you’ve ever found yourself squashed against the cold iron railings of Buckingham Palace, staring at the back of someone’s head while a fuzzy bearskin hat bobbed in the far distance, you know exactly what we mean. It’s the classic London experience… but it doesn’t have to be yours.
At Fun London Tours, we believe the best walking tours in London should feel like an adventure, not a survival test. We want to help you unearth the true spirit of this royal tradition. So, before you grab your umbrella and head toward SW1, let’s look at the seven most common mistakes people make, and how you can watch the ceremony like a seasoned pro.
The biggest mistake, by far, is thinking that the only place to watch the Changing of the Guard is directly in front of Buckingham Palace.
We’ve all seen the photos: a sea of selfie sticks and thousands of people pressed against the gates. By the time the guards actually enter the palace forecourt, the crowds are often ten people deep. Unless you happen to be seven feet tall or arrive three hours early, you’ll spend most of the time looking at a stranger’s backpack.
The Pro Tip: The ceremony doesn’t just happen at the Palace; it’s a moving parade that takes place across three different locations. Instead of staying static, we move with the action. We prefer to catch the guards as they march down The Mall or emerge from St James’s Palace. It’s more intimate, the photos are better, and you can actually hear the rhythmical thud of boots on tarmac.
Many visitors check their watches, see “11:00 AM” on a website, and assume that’s when they should show up. In reality, if you arrive at the Palace at 11:00 AM, you’ve already missed the best bits.
The ceremony is a complex choreography of different regiments moving from different barracks. The “Old Guard” and the “New Guard” begin their preparations much earlier. By 11:00 AM, the handover is already in full swing inside the gates.
The Pro Tip: A Changing the Guard tour London will usually start much earlier, between 9 AM and 10 AM. This gives us time to understand the context of the ceremony, and crucially we are able to position ourselves either at St James’s Palace or the Mall to see the Captain of the Guard march out with the Old Guard alongside the soldiers and ceremonial band.
When people talk about Changing the Guard, they almost always mean the infantry (the famous foot guards in the red tunics). But there is another, equally spectacular ceremony that happens just down the road: The Change of the Lifeguard.
The Household Cavalry, with their gleaming breastplates, plumed helmets, and magnificent horses, have their own change of the guard at Horse Guards Parade. It is steeped in history, precision, and elegance… and it’s often far less crowded than the main event at the Palace.
The Pro Tip: Don’t choose one over the other! When you join us for a small group or private Changing the Guard walking tour, we make sure you see the best of both worlds. We often start near the cavalry to appreciate the sheer scale of the horses before moving on to catch the infantry bands.
It’s a common heartbreak: a family travels across the city, finds a “prime” spot, waits for forty minutes, and then… nothing.
The Changing of the Guard does not happen every day throughout the year. The ceremony in 2026 follows an “every other day” schedule (Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday). It can also be cancelled at the very last minute due to heavy rain, official state events, and even charity runs.
The Pro Tip: Always check the official British Army schedule before you book. Unfortunately there are many companies who still advertise a changing the guard tour on dates when it is not scheduled to occur. Being a tour guide led company and endorsed by the main changing the guard website out there, changing-guard.com, we are on top of scheduling, and actually care about your experience rather than being out for a fast buck. And on days when the weather isn’t looking great, our guides, like Paul or Rachel, have the know-how to ensure our guests make the most of the scaled-down ceremony, sometimes even seeing extra bits along the way.
We get it, you want that perfect Instagram shot. But there’s a trap here. People spend the entire march looking through a 6-inch screen, trying to steady their zoom, and they completely miss the sensory experience.
You miss the flash of the sun on the brass instruments, the smell of the horses, and the literal vibration of the drums in your chest.
The Pro Tip: Take a couple of quick snaps, then put the phone away. The ceremony is a piece of living history that dates back centuries. When you’re on a small group Changing the Guard tour, your guide will point out the tiny details you’d never see through a lens, like the different buttons on the tunics that tell you which regiment is which.
Many people think the band just plays “God Save the King” on a loop. Not even close! The Guards’ bands are world-class musicians, and their repertoire is surprisingly modern. Depending on the day, you might hear anything from traditional military marches to ABBA, Star Wars themes, or even the latest pop hits.
The Pro Tip: The music is the heartbeat of the ceremony. And although marching within 12 feet of a full ceremonial band has to be the highlight of the event, hearing a brass band blast out a Broadway hit in the middle of a 500-year-old royal ritual is a quirk of British culture you simply have to hear to appreciate.
The biggest mistake of all is seeing the “what” without knowing the “why.”
Without the context, it’s just a group of men in funny hats walking around. With the story, it becomes a gripping tale of battle honours, royal protection, and British eccentricities.
The Pro Tip: This is where we come in. Our approach to London walking tours is all about the narrative. Our guides, experts like Jess, Marnie, and Rozie, don’t just point and name; they bring the history to life with wit and passion. We don’t just stand still; we march alongside the guards, giving you a front-row seat to the action as it unfolds.
We believe that the best walking tours London has to offer should be immersive. We’ve designed our Changing the Guard experience to avoid the crowds and maximise the “wow” moments.
Instead of waiting behind a fence, we’ll lead you on a dynamic route. We’ll unearth the history of St James’s Palace, dig into the stories of our military commanders, and ensure you’re perfectly positioned to see the horses and the foot guards without the stress.
Whether you’re a history buff or just looking for that iconic London moment, we invite you to join us. Let us navigate the crowds, time the marches, and share the secrets of the Crown… all you have to do is keep up!
Ready to see the magic for yourself?
Explore our Small Group Changing the Guard Tour for an intimate, expert-led experience. Or, if you’re looking to combine royal pageantry with deep history, our Buckingham Palace tickets & Changing the Guard tour combo offers a full morning of discovery.
London is waiting to tell you its stories. We’d be honoured to be the ones to tell them to you.
Keen to explore more of London’s darker side once the sun goes down? Check out our Jack the Ripper Tour for a journey into the mysteries of Victorian Whitechapel.
If you’ve ever walked past Buckingham Palace on a mid-morning in June, you’ve seen the sight. Thousands of people, huddled twenty-deep against the black and gold iron railings, necks craned, phone cameras held aloft, squinting through a sea of raised arms. They are all waiting for a glimpse of a scarlet tunic or a glimpse of a bearskin hat. They wait for hours. They shuffle. They sigh. And often, when the ceremony is over, they walk away wondering if they actually saw anything at all.
We believe there is a better way. A way filled with rhythm, pageantry, and tradition… without the stress of the scrum.
At Fun London Tours, our Changing the Guard tour isn’t just about standing at the gates; it’s about becoming part of the story. It’s about unearthing the secrets behind the soldiers, feeling the vibration of the drums in your chest, and discovering that there is so much more to this royal ritual than meets the eye.
For many visitors, the Changing the Guard ceremony is the “big one”: the absolute must-see on their London bucket list. And they aren’t wrong. It is a display of British precision, history, and excellence that has endured for centuries. However, the traditional approach of turning up at the palace gates at 10:00 am and hoping for the best is often a recipe for disappointment.
When you stand at the gates, your view is static. You see a few minutes of movement inside the courtyard, often obscured by the very bars designed to keep the public out. You miss the preparation. You miss the journey. You miss the sheer scale of the event.
When you join us for a walking tour, we flip the script. We don’t just wait for the guards; we find them.
The most significant difference between our tour and the “stand and wait” method is movement. The Changing the Guard isn’t a single event happening in one spot; it’s a choreographed ballet involving three different locations: St James’s Palace, Wellington Barracks, and Buckingham Palace.
We want you to see the whites of their eyes and the polish on their boots. By moving with our expert guides: like Joe or Angie: you get to experience the ceremony from multiple vantage points. We march alongside the guards as they move down the Mall. We stand on the curbside as the cavalry clatters past, the sound of hooves on tarmac creating a rhythmic, thunderous cadence.
This mobile approach allows us to stay ahead of the crowds. While others are stuck in one place, we are uncovering the best angles, the hidden shortcuts, and the quiet corners where you can get that perfect photo without a stranger’s head in the frame. It’s about strategy, timing, and local knowledge.
It is easy to look at the guards and see “icons” or “tourist attractions.” But these men and women are highly trained, elite soldiers of the Household Division. They are the same soldiers who serve on active duty around the world.
On our tour, we dig deeper into the mystery and magnificence of these regiments. Did you know you can tell which regiment is which by the grouping of the buttons on their tunics? Or by the colour of the plume in their bearskins? We’ll teach you how to spot a Grenadier from a Coldstream Guard in seconds.
We also dive into the quirky, human side of the monarchy. From tales of royal scandals to the architectural secrets of the palaces themselves, our guides weave a narrative that is as entertaining as it is educational. We don’t just give you dates and facts; we give you stories that breathe life into the stone and iron of London.
One of the biggest shocks for first-time visitors is the music. People expect “God Save the King” and perhaps a somber military march. While you certainly get plenty of traditional tunes, the Regimental Bands are famous for their eclectic and often hilarious repertoires.
Don’t be surprised if, amidst the ancient stone of St James’s, you suddenly hear the theme from Star Wars, a medley of ABBA hits, or the latest Disney showstopper. It is this blend of the formal and the fun that makes the ceremony so uniquely British. It’s a moment where tradition meets pop culture, and it never fails to bring a smile to the faces of families and children.
Our guides know exactly where to stand to get the best acoustic experience, ensuring you hear every note of the brass and every strike of the drum as the band marches past.
We’ve all seen those massive walking tours where sixty people are trailing behind a guide holding a neon umbrella, struggling to hear a word through a crackling headset. That’s not us.
At Fun London Tours, we believe in intimacy. Our small group philosophy ensures that you can actually talk to your guide. You can ask questions about royal life, get recommendations for the best London pubs to visit after the tour, and feel like you’re exploring the city with a knowledgeable friend.
For families, this is a game-changer. Keeping children engaged in a crowded environment can be a challenge, but our guides: including the wonderful Rachel and Pepe: are experts at making history accessible and exciting for younger explorers. We turn the streets of Westminster into a living classroom, where the lessons are taught through the sight of shining silver and the sound of marching feet.
Buckingham Palace is the star of the show, but the supporting cast is just as impressive. On our route, we often unearth the beauty of St James’s Park, the history of Clarence House (the home of the King), and the grandeur of the Horse Guards Parade.
Because we aren’t tethered to the palace railings, we have the freedom to show you the “London secrets” that most tourists walk right past. Perhaps it’s a specific statue with a scandalous backstory, or a quiet view of the lake that offers the perfect backdrop for a family portrait. These are the moments that transform a holiday into an adventure.
London is a city of layers. You can see the surface on your own, but to really understand the colour, mystery, and magnificence of this place, you need someone to help you dig a little deeper.
Our “Changing the Guard” tour is designed for those who want to see the spectacle without the stress. It’s for the curious, the families, and the history lovers who want more than just a blurry photo of a red coat.
When you book with us, you aren’t just buying a ticket; you’re securing a front-row seat to history. You’re choosing to see Buckingham Palace not as a distant monument, but as a living, breathing centre of British life.
The drums are calling… and the guards are preparing. Don’t spend your morning staring at the back of someone else’s head. Come and find the rhythm of London with us.
Whether you are a first-time visitor or a seasoned Londoner looking to see the city through fresh eyes, our tour offers a perspective you simply won’t find anywhere else. Our tour schedule is updated regularly, but these spots fill up fast: especially during the bright, bustling summer months.
Join us for an experience that is polished, professional, and above all, fun. We can’t wait to show you the side of Buckingham Palace that most people never get to see.
Explore our Changing the Guard Tour options and book your spot here!
Or, if you’re looking for a deeper dive into the city’s wartime history after the morning’s pageantry, why not check out our Small Group Iconic Westminster, WWII & Churchill War Rooms Tour? It’s the perfect way to spend a full day soaking in the very best of British heritage.
1. identifying the regiment
There are five regiments who you will usually see on display during the ceremony. The easiest way to identify the regiment is by the colour of the soldier’s plume, although you can also identify them by observing the arrangement of buttons on their tunics and symbol on their collar. Our personal favourite is the Welsh Guard who have a symbol of a leak on their collar, and their plume is white and green to represent the national vegetable of Wales!
2. Official Mascots of the British Army
If you are lucky you may see an official mascot during the ceremony. The Irish Guard have a wolf hound named Seamus, while occasionally when guest regiments have the honour of featuring in the ceremony, other mascots can be seen. The Royal Regiment of Scotland have a Shetland pony called Cruachan (as seen above), and our favourite has to be the Mercian Regiment’s Ram who is a Private in the army!
3. Changing the Guard Music
The music played by the regimental band at Buckingham Palace is chosen by the Captain of the Guard from a list presented to him by the Director of Music. Often the piece chosen will reflect the regiment, so for instance the Band of the Welsh Guard have been known to play music by Welsh musicians like Tom Jones and Shirley Bassey! Often the choice reflects a moment in history – Respect was played on the day of Aretha Franklin’s funeral, while May 4th tends to feature a Star Wars medley…
Image above – Gherkas from Nepal on duty in 2019
4. The uniforms.
You might be wondering why soldiers wear red tunics? Contrary to some rumours its not so that blood doesn’t appear to the enemy when shot! In 1645 when the New Model Army was formed a cheap form of dye was used to ensure all uniforms were of a similar colour. Naturally over time the uniforms faded and weren’t as bright on the battlefield. Warfare was of a different order then, with more orchestrated battles where the enemy could easily be identified. Red was interestingly useful as units naturally blend together wearing this colour, making it difficult to estimate numbers.
5. Who is in charge?
The Royal Family sits at the top of the British Army. As of March 2022, Queen Elizabeth II is the Head of the Armed Forces, while her son Prince Charles is not only Colonel of the Welsh Guard, but also Field Marshal, Admiral of the Fleet and Marshal of the Royal Air Force! Until there are changes at the top of the family, Prince William must settle for being Colonel of the Irish Guard. Each year the Queen inspects her troops on her official birthday in June – in an occasion called ‘Trooping the Colour’.
Learn more about this ceremony and enjoy the event in the company of award winning guides by booking onto our acclaimed changing the guard tour!
Five years ago almost to the day I ventured up to the gates of Buckingham Palace equipped with a camera, headphones and collapsable chair and witnessed the changing guard ceremony in the way that the majority of tourists see it.
Watching it in this manner was so bad that I vowed I would never do it again. Crushed, squished, cold, bored and frustrated I told everyone who would listen that they would be much better off coming on my walking tour than seeing it in this manner.
So when my friend and fellow tour guide Angus suggested making a video of what it’s like to stand at the gates to see the ceremony I initially thought ‘no way!’ But Angus being a convincing fellow, he persuaded me, and sure enough once again I ventured out to go through the pain so that all of you reading and watching this don’t have to…
This is our story!
Post Date: Saturday 16th November 2013
Author: Matt Gedge
Our most popular walking tour of London is undoubtedly the Changing the Guard Tour. Fun London Tours groups get to witness a ceremony with universal appeal, and see an iconic display of ‘Britishness’ which draws crowds from across the globe.
The two hours wizz by, and aside from my historical – and obviously incredibly entertaining – commentary, we are all enthralled by the dazzling display of colour and music as we march through Royal London.
Unfortunately, many tourists are not aware or indifferent to guided tours and so decide to experience the Guard Change by finding a place outside the gates of Buckingham Palace an hour before the ceremony (or two hours in the summer), and simply wait. If you happen to observe their expressions or overhear their comments you’ll realise that a large number of these people go away from the event disappointed.
I hadn’t experienced the ceremony like this since I was a child, so to have empathy with what the ceremony is like outside of a guided tour, I decided to take a day off, wrap up warm and take my camera over to join the crowds at Buckingham Palace.
I arrived just after 10am, fortunately found a place by the railings, got my portable seat out and started chatting to the people nearby. One couple came from Calcutta and another had travelled from Argentina. On my other side someone had brought their suitcases to sit on. The early morning sun was shining, and combined with the lack of crowds (mid-November is one of the quietest times for tourism in London), I was pretty happy with my lot.
As time ticked by, the crowds swelled. The wind had started to whip up, feeling quite bitter. I put my scarf on. After an hour or so, the Old Guard assembled on far side of the courtyard of Buckingham Palace for an inspection. As the crowd pushed forward, I tried to squeeze my head through the bars to get a better view but couldn’t see much.
At around 11.15 I heard the faint noise of drums and pipes from the Mall. Stuck against the railings with a few hundred people and the giant Victoria Memorial between me and the band, I had a feeling of detachment from the action. As the guards got closer I saw absolutely nothing until they appeared on the Palace courtyard. There was a palpable sense of excitement around me. “What will happen next?” seemed to be the collective question. Well, nothing really happened. The members of the just arrived Old Guard and their accompanying Corp of Drums stood at ease while three soldiers – one carrying the regimental colour (flag)- marched from the gate to the Palace and back again. For 15 minutes. I heard grumbles of “This is boring!” and “It’s like watching animals in the zoo!”
By this point I was really feeling the biting cold. Standing still for an hour and a half isn’t much fun. And any warmth created by the huddle of tourists was being countered by the discomfort in my back and legs as I was squashed against the railings. The Indian couple left. More people surged into their vacated position.
After quarter of an hour of clock watching we heard a band approaching. It was quite disorientating as the noise seemed to be coming from all directions, taken by the wind and perhaps bouncing off the Palace. Despite the fact the New Guard (who had come from Wellington Barracks) passed less than 15 feet from me, I could barely see the tops of their bearskins above the hundreds of heads and scores of outstretched hands holding cameras.
Once the New Guard entered the courtyard of Buckingham Palace finally I had a good view of proceedings. As the band ceased playing, we witnessed lots of shuffling of feet, indecipherable shouts to attention and marching around, most of which must have been utterly confusing for the casual spectator.
Ten minutes later some of the New Guard exited (the First Relief), and we were left observing the Old Guard facing the New Guard, motionless, for about twenty five minutes.
In all honesty, this wasn’t a fantastic spectacle! As more cold and disappointed people left, finally I had space to shake my feet about and try to stop the numbness getting a grip. Fortunately the band of the Coldstream Guard were getting ready to play some music to entertain us. To their credit they played some great stuff, with the crowd’s spirits being lifted by a series of Abba tunes to dance along to (if there was space).
After around 15 minutes the Ceremonial Band had packed away their stands and joined the Old Guard as they left the courtyard, leaving the remaining members of the New Guard to take their position in the Palace.
And that was it!
After over two hours of standing still I was rather glad to extricate myself from the area and head to a local café for a cup of tea to thaw out.
The whole experience of seeing the Changing the Guard from this perspective was worth doing as an experiment, yet absolutely something I will not do again. Considering this was November, where crowds are thin, I can only imagine how suffocating the experience would be over Christmas, Easter or throughout the summer.The sense of grandeur which resonates through the ceremony is largely lost when in the ‘prime position’ at Buckingham Palace, and one is always too far from the action to really make sense of it. The key moments where the senior officer of the Old Guard shakes left hands with the senior officer of the New Guard, has a chat and proceeds into the Palace is so quick and distant that if you looked away for a minute you’d miss it, while the individual Guard Change requires a zoom lens to adequately photograph.
Through this experience I can understand why many Londoners give the ceremony a wide birth; it takes a lot of convincing to encourage someone who lives here to appreciate that the Guard Change is something which really can be fun and entertaining.
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why you should come along on our Changing the Guard Tour!
If you want to watch a video journal of my second visit to the gates of Buckingham Palace, check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzBxMjzFJbc&t=3s
Post Date: Friday 17th May 2013
Author: Matt Gedge
Sarah McCabe, a Canadian friend of mine (and London historian) who came on the tour kindly dug these wonderful pictures out from her father’s visit to Buckingham Palace in 1962. What really struck me was the formal clothes worn by the tourists – no jeans or tracksuits then!
Enjoy…
And just for kicks, here’s a great picture of Piccadilly Circus from the same trip!
Post Date: Friday 22nd March 2013
Author: Matt Gedge
Sometimes finding out what exactly is going on with the Queen’s Guard is pretty difficult. Last summer during the Olympics I had to walk the entire route of the Changing the Guard Tour in reverse every day before starting just to see if any roads had been blocked off, and even now I’ll regularly speak to the police on duty at the Royal Palaces to see if they have an inside tip to the movements of the Foot Guards, Horse Guards and Royal Family.
During my Changing the Guard Tour on Tuesday we were fortunate enough to see both regiments of the Household Cavalry coming down the Mall together. Now, this isn’t a regular occurrence!
It took me a while of rooting around to discover what was happening, but finally I discovered it was a rehearsal for the Major General’s Inspection of the Household Cavalry which was taking place on Horse Guards Parade rather than the waterlogged Hyde Park.
And digging further, I discovered that the full Inspection was to take place three days later at 9.45am.
Of course this morning I went down to see the pomp and circumstance, got chatting to a couple whose son was involved in the action, and took some incredible pictures. I would say that aside from a few military enthusiasts and the odd bemused tourist, the majority of the tiny crowd of around 60 or 70 were comprised of family members of the Guards.
It was an event which was a privilege to behold. Members of the Mounted Guard standing in formation awaiting inspection by the Major General, and then parading around the stunning Horse Guards Parade. I could not help but be awe struck by the history, power, honour and pageantry at play just yards away.
Afterwards I walked alongside the horses to the other end of the Mall at Buckingham Palace to see the usual throng of thousands of people waiting for a Guard Change that wasn’t going to happen. (For nine months of the year it takes place once every two days).
If only they knew what was happening a ten minute walk away!
Unfortunately events like these aren’t particularly well publicised, but of course, if you stay in touch I will endeavour to let you know of any upcoming occasions of interest….
Author: Matt Gedge
Post Date: Thursday 14th March 2013
Changing the Queen’s Life Guard
At 11am Monday to Saturday and 10am Sundays, a glorious ceremony takes place on Horse Guards Parade. Resplendent in their uniforms, the Queen’s Life Guard and Blues & Royals go through the daily rituals of a ceremony which has its roots in the 17th century.
At the other end of the Mall tens of thousands of tourists jostle for position to see the top of a bearskin, but those tourists who have dared to be different are rewarded with a sight every bit as colourful and historic, but in a setting which is beyond surpass.
As a tour guide I am always struck by the magnificence of the occasion. But what really makes my heart skip a beat is the opportunity to get within touching distance of the horses as they go by. Tourists seem genuinely amazed as to how close they are to the action, but many seem totally perplexed as to what is going on or why it is happening.
While the two regiments face each other, I give the group insights into the guards, horses and uniforms while evoking images of the pageantry this parade ground has witnessed throughout the centuries.
Look at the detail of the uniforms and buildings, and they reveal incredible stories of a truly remarkable history – of a King who hid in an oak tree, of a Duke who carried a crust of bread and hard-boiled egg onto the battle field, and the supposed origins of the ‘Punishment Parade’.
So although visitors to London are understandably keen to see the Changing the Guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace, I would absolutely recommend avoiding the crowds and taking a couple of hours to come on an Essential London Tour!
